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This is a typical urban walk, that focuses on everyday Roman life. Start out on Via Giulia and Via di Monserrato, arguably the most beautiful Renaissance streets in the city. They culminate at the Palazzo Farnese, home to the French embassy. Nearby is the always-lively Campo de’ Fiori (“Field of Flowers”). Early in the morning, market vendors sell their wares and shoppers fill up the square later on. At night, Romans and tourists alike come here to mingle and party. There are plenty of restaurants, from trendy bars to traditional trattorias—but head for the smaller side streets if you want fair prices and authenticity.

The beautiful Piazza Mattei, with its Turtle Fountain, leads to the heart of the ghetto: the Jewish district between the Capitol and the Tiber River. Today’s Jewish residents still wish each other a peaceful Sabbath on Friday nights. Restaurants are closed on Fridays, but throughout the rest of the week, people come here to enjoy the famous carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes).

Rome's city island, Isola Tiberina, leads to Trastevere, the neighborhood on the “other side” of the Tiber River. In some spots this historic district feels almost like a small village because it is so quiet and calm. Other parts are mobbed by tourists. Despite these changes, the original Trasteverini take great pride in their neighborhood.



The botanical gardens and Villa Farnesina are attractions on the outskirts of the neighborhood. The Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill), towering high above the rest of the neighborhood, is great for a walk. A canon is fired here every day at noon.