Trastevere

This walk offers an ideal combination of antiquity and modern urban life. The area around Termini Central Station was once the largest bath complex in Rome. Piazza della Repubblica is reminiscent of this time, and museums Terme di Diocleziano and Palazzo Massimo feature everything about its history. Palazzo Massimo is adjacent to Viminal Hill, one of the Seven Hills of Rome. 



Another hill in this neighborhood is Esquiline, with the Santa Maria Maggiore basilica as its beacon. This is also where you'll find the San Pietro in Vincoli church, which houses the famous statue of Moses by Michelangelo.

Monti was once a neighborhood filled with brothels, cheap taverns, and craftsmen's workshops. The studios are still here, though they are now occupied by artists and designers. The taverns have been transformed into modern wine bars and the cobbled streets are lined with boutiques and trattorias.

The first thing you'll notice on Piazza Venezia is the Vittoriano: this impressive white building is often sardonically referred to as “the wedding cake.” On Capitoline Hill you'll find the Musei Capitolini, with no less than 1,300 works of art. Piazza del Campidoglio, where the museum complex is located, was designed by Michelangelo and offers a stunning view of the Roman Forum.

Via dei Fori Imperiali, built against Caelian Hill, leads from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum. The fearless gladiators who fought here in ancient times are legendary. Until recently, the area was swamped with men in gladiator costumes, trolling for business from tourists, but this practice has since been banned. 

This is a typical urban walk, that focuses on everyday Roman life. Start out on Via Giulia and Via di Monserrato, arguably the most beautiful Renaissance streets in the city. They culminate at the Palazzo Farnese, home to the French embassy. Nearby is the always-lively Campo de’ Fiori (“Field of Flowers”). Early in the morning, market vendors sell their wares and shoppers fill up the square later on. At night, Romans and tourists alike come here to mingle and party. There are plenty of restaurants, from trendy bars to traditional trattorias—but head for the smaller side streets if you want fair prices and authenticity.

The beautiful Piazza Mattei, with its Turtle Fountain, leads to the heart of the ghetto: the Jewish district between the Capitol and the Tiber River. Today’s Jewish residents still wish each other a peaceful Sabbath on Friday nights. Restaurants are closed on Fridays, but throughout the rest of the week, people come here to enjoy the famous carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes).

Rome's city island, Isola Tiberina, leads to Trastevere, the neighborhood on the “other side” of the Tiber River. In some spots this historic district feels almost like a small village because it is so quiet and calm. Other parts are mobbed by tourists. Despite these changes, the original Trasteverini take great pride in their neighborhood.



The botanical gardens and Villa Farnesina are attractions on the outskirts of the neighborhood. The Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill), towering high above the rest of the neighborhood, is great for a walk. A canon is fired here every day at noon.